Small saltwater clams, called berberechos in Spain. They are sweeter and more tender than most clams, usually packed in brine rather than oil, and they are among the most prized tins in Galicia.

Cockles are smaller, rounder, and sweeter. Clams are larger with more chew and a more mineral flavor. Both are usually packed in brine so the shellfish flavor stays forward.

They are hand harvested, graded by size, and yield very little meat per shell. A tin of large Galician berberechos holds a few dozen individually selected cockles, which accounts for most of the cost.

Straight from the tin with a small fork and a squeeze of lemon, which is standard in Galicia. They also work stirred into pasta, rice, or a simple broth at the end of cooking.

For eating straight, drain most of it and keep a spoonful. For cooking, keep all of it. The liquid carries shellfish flavor worth adding to pasta water, rice, or a sauce.